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Secret Serengeti
place in the world compares with the Serengeti—and its neighboring wildlife havens—for the sheer exhilaration of its wildlife experience. And few Serengeti safaris deliver the kind of intensive wildlife experience you’ll have on this one. With safari guru Allen Bechky, you’ll spend lots of time in the field, observing animals and exploring the secret places that most visitors miss. Roaming far and wide, you’ll discover the crocodile pools of Kirawira, the haunts of giraffe in the Moru Kopjes, the cheetahs of the Gol Kopjes, the lion prides and leopards of Seronera, the elephant herds of Ndutu, and the thundering herds of the Great Migration, when wildebeest, zebra, and gazelle cover the plains in countless numbers.



Allen rates the Serengeti as Africa’s greatest wildlife destination, and these trips are scheduled at his favorite times to be there: when the countryside is green, the skies are spectacular, and the plains are filled with animals yet relatively absent of tourists. May is a terrific time to be in the Serengeti: this is when the rainy season ends, and the great herds of wildebeest usually quit the open grasslands of the Serengeti Plains to start their trek into the savanna woodlands to the north. This movement is one of the world’s greatest wildlife spectacles, when millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles thunder across the Serengeti Plains. Against a backdrop of wide-open spaces and immense skies, we’ll explore the incomparable Serengeti—the domain of lion, cheetah, hyena, jackal, and leopard. We’ll thrill to the sight of thousands-strong herds of antelope and zebra.

Early December is also a wonderful time to visit. With the advent of the “short rains” in November, the plains are again green and teeming with life. Now the migration is streaming southward, back onto the plains where the hungry resident predators await their season of plenty. And with the beginning of the northern hemisphere’s winter, the sky is filled with flocks of migrant storks and birds of prey. In the lull before the busy Christmas travel season, we can have the Serengeti wilderness pretty much to ourselves.

Allen’s safaris always produce phenomenal wildlife observations. On the May 2001 safari, his group saw more than ninety-three different lions, four leopards (including a female in a two-hour confrontation with a troop of baboons), six cheetahs, a caracal, and a pangolin! The May 2002 group got eight leopards; May 2003 and December 2004 each had twenty cheetahs. Past performance is no guarantee of future sightings, but on this safari you are sure to see more animals than you ever dreamed possible.

ABOUT ALLEN BECHKY SAFARIS
Allen Bechky Safaris, operated in association with Mountain Travel Sobek, are geared for serious natural history enthusiasts who are passionate about wildlife observation and seek an intensive field experience. This often means working hard to search for particular species and spending extended periods of time in the field being attentive, observing activity, and examining habitats.

Each safari is a unique expedition to a part of Africa known to but a few, led by Allen Bechky, chief guide and former head of Africa Operations for Mountain Travel Sobek. Allen literally wrote the book on African safaris—his popular volumes, Adventuring in East Africa and Adventuring in Southern Africa, are standard references for tour operators and travelers everywhere. A recognized authority on African wildlife and safari lore (Outside magazine called him “Mr. Migration”), Allen is legendary for his encyclopedic knowledge and his enthusiasm for the bush. He is one of Africa’s most experienced safari guides—he’s been leading Serengeti safaris since 1980—and he’ll really help you understand and appreciate all aspects of the African environment. Allen is a natural-born teacher and his irrepressible sense of humor makes him a delightful traveling companion. He is also an excellent speaker and an accomplished photographer. The opportunity to join Allen in the field on an exciting safari is not to be missed.

ITINERARY (May 12 departure)
Each itinerary begins with a rendezvous at the Kilimanjaro Airport on Day 1. Your flight can arrive at any time.

DAY 1, May 12 ~ Arrive in Tanzania
Arrive at Kilimanjaro Airport, Tanzania. You will be met by a representative of Mountain Travel Sobek at the airport and escorted to the Mountain Village Lodge where you will meet Allen Bechky. The day is at leisure, so you may choose to relax, bird-watch, or go for a walk in the lovely countryside near the lodge. In the evening, we’ll meet for a thorough trip briefing and a welcome dinner.
D…Mountain Village Lodge

A word about international air travel—You may wish to arrive a day or two early in Arusha to facilitate recovery from jet lag, or break your journey en route in Europe. There is some extra cost involved for overnight stays, but they often prove worthwhile when balanced against the gain of arriving at your destination happy and well rested, and ready to begin a great adventure.

DAY 2, May 13 ~ Lake Manyara
We start our safari with a scenic drive through Africa’s Great Rift Valley. We’ll enjoy stunning vistas of extinct volcanoes and WaArusha pastoralists tending their herds of cattle as we make our way to Lake Manyara National Park. Situated at the foot of a spectacular Rift Valley escarpment, Manyara park hosts wonderful concentrations of animals and birds. The lakeshore teems with colorful water birds of every variety (herons, storks, ibises, ducks, geese, cormorants, and fish eagles, to name just a few) and possesses one of the most fantastic hippo pools in Africa. In its palm jungles and quiet forest glades, we encounter many impala, as well as groups of giraffe, zebra, and buffalo, and may hear the calls of hornbills and blue monkeys. We may also enjoy close-up viewing of Manyara’s exceptionally calm elephant herds: one of our objectives here is to get right into the center of a group of females and calves so we can observe the complex and fascinating social structure of an elephant family.

One of the highlights of Manyara is its many troops of baboons. These fascinating primates are often overlooked, but here we can watch them at very close quarters, and it is an opportunity not to be missed. We are likely to see them in many different situations: feeding high in trees or in grassy glades; columns on the move; grooming, fighting mating, just about everything that baboons do. In May there are relatively few vehicles around, so we’ll be able to cruise through the park, stopping at will for undisturbed wildlife and bird viewing. After settling into a lovely safari lodge with stunning views of the lake and the Rift Valley, we’ll take an afternoon game drive—our introduction to the wildlife of Africa. B,L,D…Manyara Serena Lodge

DAY 3, May 14 ~ Lake Manyara – Ngorongoro Crater
We drive through the verdant farmlands of Mbululand until we enter the highland forests of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Our destination is Ngorongoro Crater, which is truly one of the great natural wonders of the world. Within a 100-square-mile caldera—framed by steep, green volcanic walls—a spectacular assemblage of wildlife can be viewed. The crater floor is almost entirely open country, so wildlife is fully visible, a wonderful opportunity for photography and meaningful observations. Today, we’ll get fabulous views as we skirt around the rim of the Crater in route to Ngorongoro Serena Lodge, which has fantastic views down into the Crater. After lunch, we’ll descend for our first game drive on the Crater floor.
B,L,D…Ngorongoro Serena Lodge

DAY 4, May 15 ~ Ngorongoro Crater
If you had only one game drive in your life to see African wildlife, Ngorongoro Crater would be the place to do it. Envision a pride of lions, bellies flat to the ground, closing in on a group of unsuspecting zebra, or a black rhino peacefully browsing on a grassy plain, casually unaware that its species teeters on the brink of extinction. Herds of zebra, wildebeest, and gazelle mingle and circulate together, while groups of buffalo graze the long grass areas and bull elephants feed in green marshes. There are plenty of hyenas and prides of lions, and we may be fortunate enough to witness predation in action. Wildebeest will be in the midst of their annual rut, and we will observe the peculiarities of this animal’s mating system at close hand. The Crater is the best place in Tanzania to see the black rhino, so we will actively search for these normally reclusive animals.

Today, we rise before dawn so we can observe the crater at first light. We’ll watch the sun rising over the crater’s Lake Magadi, bathing its massed flamingos in a sea of pink. We then descend into the crater for superb close-up wildlife observations in an extraordinary setting. We’ll have six hours of wildlife viewing in the Crater.* We return to Serena Lodge for lunch and some relaxation. In the late afternoon we will visit the village of Ole Dorop, a traditional Masai chief who is a good friend of Allen Bechky’s. This is an authentic Masai ngang (also called a manyatta, or boma; all mean homestead or village), not a cultural village set up for tourism. We’ll meet Ole Dorop’s extended family and neighbors as they go about their daily routines. Late afternoon or early morning are the best times to visit a Masai village; this is when the livestock return from (or depart for) their day of grazing, and therefore the time of the most frantic activity in the village. Calves are reunited with their mothers to suckle, cows and goats are milked, laughing children are everywhere, and the people all seem to have a good time. It is really a moving cultural experience.

*Please note—Up until now, we have always spent a full day down in the Crater but new park regulations may soon take effect limiting game drives to a maximum of six hours; if park policies still permit a full day game drive, we will do it and enjoy a specially catered lunch on the Crater floor in a delightful private picnic site. Since we would spend the afternoon in the Crater, we would then visit Ole Dorop’s Masai boma on the morning of Day 5.

B,L,D…Ngorongoro Serena Lodge
DAY 5, May 16 ~ Olduvai Gorge – Lake Ndutu – Serengeti National Park We descend from the Crater Highlands onto the Serengeti Plains. En route we pass through Olduvai Gorge, where Louis and Mary Leakey made some of the most important discoveries in the search for human origins. We’ll visit a small but interesting museum at Olduvai, where we will learn about the discovery and significance of the site where the history of humankind is traced back more than 1.6 million years. In addition to the relics of our human ancestors, we’ll see the fossils of vanished forms of elephants and other wildlife that shared the ancient Serengeti ecosystem with the precursors of Homo sapiens.

After leaving the acacia woodlands that fringe the Olduvai watershed, we find ourselves entering the vast treeless plains of the Serengeti. We’ll thrill to our entry to the Serengeti as we travel over the open plains encountering groups of gazelle, ostrich, hyena, and jackals. We may already find our first big herds of wildebeest or zebra, and are likely to observe cheetah or lion on our first Serengeti game drive.

We make camp on Naabi Hill, a prominent outcrop that sticks out in the geographic center of the Serengeti Plains. The hill is an island of woodlands and an important refuge for the big cats: lions and cheetah are often seen right at camp. Naabi makes a terrific base from which to explore the Serengeti Plains. B,L,D…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp at Naabi Hill

DAYS 6-8, May 17-19 ~ Serengeti – Lake Ndutu – Naabi Hill – Gol Kopjes
Based at our camp at Naabi, we will do a thorough reconnaissance of the southern and eastern Serengeti Plains. The exact location of the big migrating herds of wildebeest varies a lot, but we’ll be in a great position to explore in any direction.

We’ll spend time exploring the short grass plains between Lake Ndutu and Naabi Hill. The area around Lake Ndutu and Naabi is the fulcrum of the great migration during the green season (December through May), when vast throngs of wildebeest and zebra filter through to rich grazing grounds on either side of the Ndutu woodlands. The great herds may or may not be found at Ndutu, but the woodlands and marshes around the lake are always good places to find resident lion and cheetah, as well as elusive caracal, serval, and African wildcats. Elephants also frequent the Ndutu woodlands, where large breeding herds may be found.

We can even explore to the southwestward of Ndutu, to the remote expanses bordering the Maswa Game Reserve, or go northwest to the waterholes of Secret Valley. This hidden depression is the headwaters for the Mbalageti River, a rainy season stream that is often used as a major migration route at this time of year.

Driving cross-country, we’ll definitely venture to the Gol Kopjes—and perhaps even beyond toward the Gol Mountains that mark the eastern reaches of the Serengeti Plain. The “short grass” of the Serengeti’s treeless eastern plain is an exceptionally good area for cheetahs, which feed on the thousands of gazelle that thrive there. Among the hauntingly beautiful Gol Kopjes, we’ll have an excellent chance to find both cheetah and lion. Kopjes are outcroppings of ancient stone—rounded piles of boulders formed into distinctive shapes by eons of wind. They occur as archipelagos, little islands of stone punctuating the Serengeti’s sea of grass, and each has a very different character. Lions (and other predators) greatly favor kopjes as daytime resting places. B,L,D each day…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp at Naabi Hill

DAY 9, May 20 ~ Simba Kopjes – Lake Magadi – Moru Kopjes
We move northward into the “long grass” of the central Serengeti plains, passing through the Simba Kopjes. This area is prime lion and cheetah country. The beautiful topi antelope is common around the Simba Kopjes, and the delicate reedbuck is often encountered in the vegetation that surrounds the rock outcrops, too. We then head toward the western side of the plains. At this time of year, large numbers of wildebeest and zebra may be moving northward following the course of the seasonal Mbalageti River from Secret Valley toward the Moru Kopjes and Lake Magadi. The Moru Kopjes are the largest of Serengeti outcrops, forming a range of wooded, rocky hills on the western edge of the open plains. Here woodlands and grass plains meet, so there is a great variety of vegetation and wildlife. Elephant are often found here, leopard and lion are common, and there is a small relict population of black rhino. The Moru area has a wonderful wilderness character; although not often visited, it is well worth exploring. After finishing our explorations in the Moru Kopjes–Lake Magadi area, we move off the great open plains and into the woodlands that characterize the northern half of the Serengeti. We proceed to Serengeti Serena Lodge. B,L,D…Serengeti Serena Lodge

DAYS 10-13, May 21-24 ~ Seronera – Barafu Kopjes – Lobo
We spend a day exploring the Moru Kopjes, then move to our camp at Seronera, where we are at the edge of the woodlands that characterize the northern half of the Serengeti ecosystem. The savanna woodlands of the Serengeti include a mosaic of habitats: small grassy plains mix with tree savannas and areas of dense bush. The variety of vegetation makes for a much greater diversity of animals: elephant, buffalo, giraffe, dik-dik, reedbuck, impala, waterbuck, baboons, and vervet monkeys are all common resident species, as are lion, cheetah, leopard, and hyena. The bird life is also extremely varied and prolific, ranging from colorful weaverbirds to imposing Martial eagles. Several permanent rivers drain the woodlands of the north, and these are the habitat of hippos and crocodiles.

We’ll base ourselves at a private campsite around Seronera, which is at the center of Serengeti National Park. Here the woodlands of the northern Serengeti meet the edge of the treeless plain. In the Seronera area itself are the beautiful Masai Kopjes and the Seronera River, which is one of the finest areas in Africa for encounters with leopard. These secretive cats are often found in trees along the many little tributaries of the Seronera River. (Our May 2002 safari racked up an amazing eight leopards in Serengeti, five of which were around Seronera). Seronera always has plenty of resident game, including impala, baboon, vervet monkey, waterbuck, giraffe, buffalo, and elephant, as well as leopard and several resident prides of lion, and the area may well be thronged with herds of zebra and wildebeest. Camping at Seronera is always exciting; lions are inevitably close to camp!

During our extended stay at Seronera, we’ll have many different options for our explorations and can easily go in whichever direction game viewing conditions are best. We may elect to wander back out onto the open plains if migration is still out that way. (In 1998, we found the biggest concentrations of animals well to the east of Seronera, in the isolated Barafu Kopjes!) If migration is crowded in the Moru Kopjes, we can spend more time in that area. And migration could very well be centered on Seronera itself—in which case, we’ll see thousands of thirsty animals coming daily to drink from the Seronera River. From Seronera, we’ll also be in a an ideal position to visit the Western Corridor, explore the hippo pools at Retima, or even go as far afield as Lobo in the northern sector of the park. Lobo is another richly scenic region characterized by large kopje-studded hills that rise above the drainage of the upper Grumeti River. It, too, has abundant resident woodland game, including giraffe, buffalo, a host of antelope, and all the predators, but it is not usually the place for the big migration in May. B,L,D each day…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp at Seronera

DAY 14, May 25 ~ The Western Corridor – Kirawira
We move westward, following the drainage of the Grumeti River, which flows through the Serengeti’s Western Corridor to Lake Victoria. It’s an exciting area: ribbons of tall, evergreen gallery forest fringe the river, the habitat of extraordinary black and white colobus monkeys and spectacular birds such as turacos and casqued hornbills. Other unusual animals found in the Western Corridor include gray duiker and patas monkey. In June the Western Corridor usually becomes the focal point for the Great Migration, as big herds of thirsty wildebeest concentrate around the waters of the Grumeti River. The monster-size crocodiles (with specimens more than 15 feet long!) that inhabit the pools at Kirawira then enjoy the bounty of an annual feast of wildebeest. We’ll see these huge reptiles, as well as the hippos and monitor lizards that share their aquatic habitat. Migration could well be coming into the Corridor early, and the area has plenty of resident game, including elephant, buffalo, and all the cats. We stay in the Corridor at an elegant permanent tented camp.
B,L,D…Kirawira Tented Camp

DAY 15, May 26 ~ Serengeti – Arusha – Depart
We enjoy a last morning of wildlife around Kirawira before heading to the local airstrip. We then fly by light aircraft to Arusha and transfer to Mountain Village Lodge, where we have dayrooms and dinner before our evening departure on homeward-bound flights. Your international flight should be booked for after 9:00 p.m. Note—Trip members traveling to Nairobi can connect this afternoon to Air Kenya’s daily flight back to Kenya. Those passengers transferring to Nairobi by road will need an extra night at Mountain Village Lodge, then transfer to Nairobi the next day.
B,L,D…Dayroom at Mountain Village Lodge

ITINERARY (November 24 departure)
DAY 1, Nov 24 ~ Arrive in Tanzania

Arrive at Kilimanjaro Airport, Tanzania. You will be met by a representative of Mountain Travel Sobek at the airport and escorted to the Mountain Village Lodge, where you will meet Allen Bechky. The day is at leisure, so you may choose to relax, bird-watch, or go for a walk in the lovely countryside near the lodge. In the evening, we’ll meet for a thorough trip briefing and a welcome dinner.
D…Mountain Village Lodge

DAY 2, Nov 25 ~ Tarangire National Park
We start our safari with a scenic drive through Africa’s Great Rift Valley. We’ll enjoy stunning vistas of extinct volcanoes and WaArusha pastoralists tending their herds of cattle as we make our way to Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is a fabulous park. Its principal attractions are the unique beauty of its baobab woodlands and the fantastic concentrations of game attracted to its namesake river during Africa’s dry season. December is usually an excellent month in Tarangire: the “short rains” have refreshed the park but the migratory animals have not yet dispersed to their wet season ranges, and a daylong procession of wild animals still proceeds to the Tarangire River to drink. Species to be seen include numerous family groups of elephants (often in concentrations of hundreds), huge herds of buffalo, wildebeest, and zebra, as well as many groups of eland, oryx, kongoni, impala, and reedbuck. Lion and leopard are both common, although the spotted cats are, of course, masters of camouflage and can be difficult to find. African wild dogs are sometimes found at Tarangire. Sometimes we also find real safari oddities at this park, including the incomparably beautiful antelope called the lesser kudu and the hard-to-find African python. The bird life is varied and spectacular.

At Tarangire, we will move into our first private mobile camp, where we can savor the peace and isolation of the African wilderness.
B,L,D…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp

DAY 3, Nov 26 ~ Tarangire National Park
We have another full day to explore Tarangire. At this time of the year, there is an abundance of game around and we’ll have plenty of time for extended wildlife observations. Here we’ll ease into the rhythm of the bush: we’ll wake early to the chorus of the birds, spend the day exploring and observing wildlife, and thrill to the roars of lions in the night.
B,L,D… Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp
 
DAY 4, Nov 27 ~ Lake Manyara
We drive through Tarangire, then continue with a scenic one-hour drive through Africa’s Great Rift Valley en route to our lodge perched above Lake Manyara National Park. We’ll have lunch at the lodge, then proceed for a lovely afternoon of wildlife observations in the park.

Situated at the foot of a spectacular Rift Valley escarpment, Manyara park hosts wonderful concentrations of animals and birds. The lakeshore teems with colorful water birds of every variety (herons, storks, ibises, ducks, geese, cormorants, and fish eagles, to name just a few) and possesses one of the most fantastic hippo pools in Africa. In its palm jungles and quiet forest glades, we encounter many impala, as well as groups of giraffe, zebra, and buffalo, and may hear the calls of hornbills and blue monkeys. We may also enjoy close-up viewing of Manyara’s exceptionally calm elephant herds: one of our objectives here is to get right into the center of a group of females and calves so we can observe the complex and fascinating social structure of an elephant family.

One of the highlights of Manyara is its many troops of baboons. These fascinating primates are often overlooked, but here we can watch them at very close quarters, and it is an opportunity not to be missed. We are likely to see them in many different situations: feeding high in trees or in grassy glades; columns on the move; grooming, fighting mating, just about everything that baboons do. In November there are relatively few vehicles around, so we’ll be able to cruise through the park, stopping at will for undisturbed wildlife and bird viewing.
B,L,D…Manyara Serena Lodge

DAY 5, Nov 28 ~ Ngorongoro Crater
We drive through the verdant farmlands of Mbululand until we enter the highland forests of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Our destination is Ngorongoro Crater, which is truly one of the great natural wonders of the world. Within a 100-square-mile caldera—framed by steep, green volcanic walls—a spectacular assemblage of wildlife can be viewed. The crater floor is almost entirely open country, so wildlife is fully visible, a wonderful opportunity for photography and meaningful observations. Today, we’ll get fabulous views as we skirt around the rim of the Crater in route to Ngorongoro Serena Lodge, which has fantastic views down into the Crater. After lunch, we’ll descend for our first game drive on the Crater floor.

If you had only one game drive in your life to see African wildlife, Ngorongoro Crater would be the place to do it. Envision a pride of lions, bellies flat to the ground, closing in on a group of unsuspecting zebra, or a black rhino browsing on a grassy plain, casually unaware that its species teeters on the brink of extinction. Herds of zebra, wildebeest, and gazelle mingle and circulate together, while groups of buffalo graze the long grass areas and bull elephants feed in green marshes. There are plenty of hyenas and huge prides of lions, and we may be fortunate S E C R E T S E R E NGE T I enough to witness predation in action. Wildebeest will be in the midst of their annual rut, and we will observe the peculiarities of this animal’s mating system at close hand.
B,L,D…Ngorongoro Serena Lodge

DAY 6, Nov 29 ~ Ngorongoro Crater
Today, we rise before dawn so we can observe the crater at first light. We’ll watch the sun rising over the crater’s Lake Magadi, bathing its massed flamingos in a sea of pink. We then descend into the crater for superb close-up wildlife observations in an extraordinary setting. We’ll have a full day of wildlife viewing in the Crater, with a specially catered lunch on the Crater floor in a delightful private picnic site. The Crater is the best place in Tanzania to see black rhino, so we will actively search for these normally reclusive animals. We’ll have six hours of wildlife viewing in the Crater.*

We return to Serena Lodge for lunch and some relaxation. In the late afternoon we will visit the village of Ole Dorop, a traditional Masai chief who is a good friend of Allen Bechky’s. This is an authentic Masai ngang (also called a manyatta, or boma; all mean homestead or village), not a cultural village set up for tourism. We’ll meet Ole Dorop’s extended family and neighbors as they go about their daily routines. Late afternoon or early morning are the best times to visit a Masai village; this is when the livestock return from (or depart for) their day of grazing, and therefore the time of the most frantic activity in the village. Calves are reunited with their mothers to suckle, cows and goats are milked, laughing children are everywhere, and the people all seem to have a good time. It is really a moving cultural experience.

*Please note—Up until now, we have always spent a full day down in the Crater but new park regulations may soon take effect limiting game drives to a maximum of six hours; if park policies still permit a full day game drive, we will do it and enjoy a specially catered lunch on the Crater floor in a delightful private picnic site. Since we would spend the afternoon in the Crater, we would then visit Ole Dorop’s Masai boma on the morning of Day 7.
B,L,D…Ngorongoro Serena Lodge

DAY 7, Nov 30 ~ Olduvai Gorge – Lake Ndutu – Naabi Hill – Serengeti National Park
We descend from the Crater Highlands onto the Serengeti Plains. En route we pass through Olduvai Gorge, where Louis and Mary Leakey made some of the most important discoveries in the search for human origins. We’ll visit a small but interesting museum at Olduvai, where we will learn about the discovery and significance of the site where the history of humankind is traced back more than 1.6 million years. In addition to the relics of our human ancestors, we’ll see the fossils of vanished forms of elephants and other wildlife that shared the ancient Serengeti ecosystem with the precursors of Homo sapiens.

After leaving the acacia woodlands that fringe the Olduvai watershed, we find ourselves entering the vast treeless plains of the Serengeti. We’ll thrill to our entry to the Serengeti as we travel over the open plains encountering groups of gazelle, ostrich, hyena, and jackals. We may already find our first big herds of wildebeest or zebra, and are likely to observe cheetah or lion on our first Serengeti game drive.

We make camp on Naabi Hill, a prominent outcrop that sticks out in the geographic center of the Serengeti Plains. The hill is an island of woodlands and an important refuge for the big cats: lions and cheetah are often seen right at camp. Naabi makes a terrific base from which to explore the Serengeti Plains. B,L,D…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp at Naabi Hill

DAYS 8-10, Dec 1-3 ~ Serengeti – Lake Ndutu – Naabi Hill – Gol Kopjes
Based at our camp at Naabi, we will do a thorough reconnaissance of the southern and eastern Serengeti Plains. The exact location of the big migrating herds of wildebeest varies a lot, but we’ll be in a great position to explore in any direction.

We’ll spend time exploring the short grass plains between Lake Ndutu and Naabi Hill. The area around Lake Ndutu and Naabi is the fulcrum of the great migration during the green season (December through May), when vast throngs of wildebeest and zebra filter through to rich grazing grounds on either side of the Ndutu woodlands. The great herds may or may not be found at Ndutu, but the woodlands and marshes around the lake are always good places to find resident lion and cheetah, as well as elusive caracal, serval, and African wildcats. Elephants also frequent the Ndutu woodlands, where large breeding herds may be found.

We can even explore to the southwestward of Ndutu, to the remote expanses bordering the Maswa Game Reserve, or go northwest to the waterholes of Secret Valley. This hidden depression is the headwaters for the Mbalageti River, a rainy season stream that is often used as a major migration route at this time of year.

Driving cross-country, we’ll definitely venture to the Gol Kopjes—and perhaps even beyond toward the Gol Mountains that mark the eastern reaches of the Serengeti Plain. The “short grass” of the Serengeti’s treeless eastern plain is an exceptionally good area for cheetahs, which feed on the thousands of gazelle that thrive there. Among the hauntingly beautiful Gol Kopjes, we’ll have an excellent chance to find both cheetah and lion. Kopjes are outcroppings of ancient stone—rounded piles of boulders formed into distinctive shapes by eons of wind. They occur as archipelagos, little islands of stone punctuating the Serengeti’s sea of grass, and each has a very different character. Lions (and other predators) greatly favor kopjes as daytime resting places.
B,L,D each day…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp at Naabi Hill

DAY 11, Dec 4 ~ Simba Kopjes – Lake Magadi – Moru Kopjes
We move northward into the “long grass” of the central Serengeti plains, passing through the Simba Kopjes. This area is prime lion and cheetah country. The beautiful topi antelope is common around the Simba Kopjes, and the delicate reedbuck is often encountered in the vegetation that surrounds the rock outcrops, too. We then head toward the western side of the plains. At this time of year, large numbers of wildebeest and zebra may be moving northward following the course of the seasonal Mbalageti River from Secret Valley toward the Moru Kopjes and Lake Magadi. The Moru Kopjes are the largest of Serengeti outcrops, forming a range of wooded, rocky hills on the western edge of the open plains. Here woodlands and grass plains meet, so there is a great variety of vegetation and wildlife. Elephant are often found here, leopard and lion are common, and there is a small relict population of black rhino. The Moru area has a wonderful wilderness character; although not often visited, it is well worth exploring. After finishing our explorations in the Moru Kopjes–Lake Magadi area, we move off the great open plains and into the woodlands that characterize the northern half of the Serengeti. We proceed to Serengeti Serena Lodge. B,L,D…Serengeti Serena Lodge

DAYS 12-14, Dec 5-7 ~ Seronera – Western Corridor – Kirawira – Lobo
The savanna woodlands of the Serengeti include a mosaic of habitats: small grassy plains mix with tree savannas and areas of dense bush. The variety of vegetation makes for a much greater diversity of animals: elephant, buffalo, giraffe, dik-dik, reedbuck, impala, waterbuck, baboons, and vervet monkeys are all common resident species, as are lion, cheetah, leopard, and hyena. The bird life is also extremely varied and prolific, ranging from colorful weaverbirds to imposing Martial eagles. Several permanent rivers drain the woodlands of the north, and these are the habitat of hippos and crocodiles.

We’ll base ourselves at a private campsite around Seronera, which is at the center of Serengeti National Park. Here the woodlands of the northern Serengeti meet the edge of the treeless plain. In the Seronera area itself are the beautiful Masai Kopjes and the Seronera River, which is one of the finest areas in Africa for encounters with the leopard. These secretive cats are often found in trees along the many little tributaries of the Seronera River. Seronera always has resident game, including impala, baboon, vervet monkey, waterbuck, giraffe, elephant and buffalo, as well as leopard and several resident prides of lion, and the area may well be thronged with herds of zebra and wildebeest. Camping at Seronera is always exciting, as lions are frequent visitors to our camp and their calls are often heard at night. During our stay here, we may elect to wander back out onto the open plains if migration is out that way.

During the course of our stay at Seronera, we’ll visit the Retima River hippo pool, and we might even take a day to explore northward into the beautiful hill country around Lobo. Lobo is another richly scenic region characterized by large hills that rise above the drainage of the upper Grumeti River. It, too, has abundant resident woodland game, including giraffe, buffalo, a host of antelope, and all the predators. Lobo is also excellent elephant country, and its big rock kopjes are the favored habitat for klipspringers.

Conditions permitting, we might also follow the drainage of the Grumeti River, which flows through the Serengeti’s Western Corridor to Lake Victoria. It’s an exciting area: ribbons of tall, evergreen gallery forest fringe the rivers, the habitat of colobus monkeys and spectacular birds such as turacos and casqued hornbills. Other unusual animals found in the Western Corridor include gray duiker and patas monkey, and crocodiles. In June the Western Corridor often becomes a focal point for the Great Migration, as big herds of thirsty wildebeest concentrate around the waters of the Grumeti River. The monster-size crocodiles (with specimens more than 15 feet long!) that inhabit the pools at Kirawira then enjoy the bounty of an annual feast of wildebeest. At this time of year, we may not go as far as Kirawira, but we’ll see big crocodiles in several pools in the Orangi River, as well as the hippos and monitor lizards that share their aquatic habitat.
B,L,D each day…Mountain Travel Sobek Private Camp at Seronera

DAY 15, Dec 8 ~ Serengeti – Arusha – Depart
We enjoy a last morning of wildlife viewing as we make our way to the airstrip at Seronera. We then fly by light aircraft to Arusha and transfer to Mountain Village Lodge, where we have dayrooms and dinner before our evening departure on homeward-bound flights. Your international flight should be booked for after 9:00 p.m. Note—Trip members traveling to Nairobi can connect this afternoon to Air Kenya’s daily flight back to Kenya. Those passengers transferring to Nairobi by road will need an extra night at Mountain Village Lodge, then transfer to Nairobi the next day.
B,L,D…Dayroom at Mountain Village Lodge

Notes on Itinerary
The published itinerary is subject to change due to weather, game concentrations, or other unforeseen circumstances. Planning a safari in a wilderness area with highly variable climatic conditions and a migratory ecosystem almost ensures that some changes in the daily itinerary may occur. In the course of our explorations, we will visit most of the places described in the itineraries above—and more! Any particular area may or may not hold herds of wildebeest and zebra, but predators will be found everywhere. However the exact itinerary turns out, we are certain to have an extraordinary expedition as we explore the far corners of the Serengeti.

This land itinerary is based on Northwest and KLM flight schedules to and from Kilimanjaro International Airport in Tanzania. Due to restricted availability of flights and low-cost fares to Kilimanjaro (or to ongoing travel arrangements), many clients use Nairobi, Kenya, as a gateway to East Africa. This requires extra hotel and transfer arrangements at additional cost. This also means you need to depart at least one day earlier and may have to return a day later.

For Nairobi arrivals, we suggest that you spend your first night at the Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi and transfer to Arusha the following day (it is possible to transfer on the same day if you have an early morning arrival, but it is much more restful to spend the night in Nairobi). You can fly daily from Nairobi to Kilimanjaro on Air Kenya, or travel down to Arusha, Tanzania, by motor coach (this is a five- to six-hour trip).

At the end of the trip, you can return to Nairobi on Day 15 if you fly on Air Kenya. If you opt for a return by motor coach, you would need to spend the night of Day 15 at Mountain Village Lodge near Arusha. (We do not return to Arusha until midday—too late to be sure to catch the motor coach.) You would then return to Nairobi the next morning and take your homeward-bound flight the same evening.

We can make all necessary hotel and motor coach arrangements for you. Confirmed trip members will receive our Pre-Trip Supplement with details of all transfer and accommodation packages.

Make the Most of Your Adventure
Make the most of your Tanzania adventure by adding on a pre-trip extension to Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve or Tanzania’s exotic isle of Zanzibar. Call us for all the details, including prices. LAND COST May 12 departure

$9,190 per person (8 members)
$10,190 per person (5-7 members)
$11,190 per person (4 members)
Single Supplement—$1,000 “requested”; $600 “forced”
$1,200 park fees—subject to change
November 24 departures
$9,390 per person (8 members)
$10,390 per person (5-7 members)
$11,390 per person (4 members)
Single Supplement—$1,200 “requested”; $800 “forced”
$1,200 park fees—subject to change

Note—Trip prices vary between departures due to logistics of the safaris and the different seasons of operation. Rates quoted are per person, based on sharing double accommodations.

Single Supplement—If you prefer single accommodations, you must pay the Single Supplement Fee. If you’re traveling alone and wish to share accommodations, we’ll try our best to find you a roommate. If that’s not possible, we will only charge you a portion of the single supplement.

Tier Pricing
Adventure travel works best with a small group of people. In order to operate these small groups, our trips are priced according to the number of full-price passengers on the trip. (Mountain Travel Sobek staff, trip doctors, and other discounted travelers are excluded from the count for this purpose.) We initially invoice you at the highest tier level price (the smallest group size we can operate). If the price drops due to an increase in group size, you will be refunded the difference.

What’s Included
  • leadership of Allen Bechky
  • safari arrangements and accommodations as noted in the itinerary
  • camping arrangements inclusive of all bottled water, soft drinks, beer, and wine with dinner in our private camps
  • flight from Serengeti to Arusha
  • group camping and commissary equipment
  • meals as noted (B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner), inclusive of drinks and wine with dinner
  • all gratuities including tips to your leader, driver-guides and safari camp staff, as well as for staff and porters at lodges
  • laundry service in camp
  • group airport transfers
  • sightseeing as noted in the itinerary
  • ground transportation
  • local guides
  • basic medical and evacuation insurance

What’s Not
Hotels, day rooms or meals in Europe en route; park fees (see separate cost above); visas; cost of medical immunizations; insurance other than basic medical and evacuation insurance noted above (we strongly recommend you purchase the supplementary trip insurance offered by Mountain Travel Sobek, which includes trip cancellation insurance); excess baggage charges; airport taxes (US$30 international departure tax from Tanzania/US$30 international departure tax from Kenya, if traveling via Nairobi); additional airport transfers or Kenya border transfers; items of a personal nature (bar bills, room service, telephone, laundry charges) at hotels; additional premium liquors, wines, or champagne.

Payment & Cancellation Policy
(This differs from regular Mountain Travel Sobek trips.)

I. Payment
At time of reservation: 25% of Land Cost
120 days prior to departure: 25% of Land Cost
90 days prior to departure: Balance of Land Cost

II. Cancellation
If written notice of cancellation is received: Cancellation Fee will be:

From time of reservation until
90 days prior to departure 25% of Land Cost
89 to 60 days prior to departure 50% of Land Cost
59 days or less prior to departure 100% of Land Cost

Air Travel
Airfare is not included in the land cost of our trips. For air reservations, we recommend you contact the airlines directly, either by phone or the Internet. In addition, many travelers elect to use their “frequent flyer” miles when traveling with us. But please check with our staff before purchasing or obtaining your tickets. We need to verify your arrival and departure schedule and ensure we have enough participants to operate the trip.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT
On Safari in the Serengeti with Allen Bechky This safari is an in-depth investigation of the African wilds, and you’ll explore it in the company of Allen Bechky, a premier guide whose knowledge of the fauna, flora, people, and geography will add immensely to the depth of your experience. Although the prime emphasis will naturally be on observation of the large African mammals (and incredible game viewing is assured), we will be looking at all aspects of African nature. Plants, birds, reptiles, insects, and human impacts on the environment will all be examined. We’ll be checking out dung beetles and termites, whistling thorns and acacia pods, and sunbirds and birds of prey, all in addition to lions and elephants. The diversity of life forms in Africa’s complex ecosystems is amazing, and you’ll find it all very exciting. Allen plans his Serengeti trips very carefully. They are designed to allow you to explore large areas of this extraordinary park while concentrating on the places that are likely to have the greatest seasonal abundance of wildlife. The May and November trips coincide with the end of the local rainy seasons, when there are fewer visitors around and you can best appreciate the wilderness values of this extraordinary place. In fact, Allen considers this the best time to go. Rain is possible, of course, but in Serengeti it comes mostly in short and scattered showers that refresh and enhance the beauty of the plains: the country is green and filled with wildlife and wildflowers, the skies are immense, and we have the place almost all to ourselves.

You can expect an active safari: we’ll often be getting up before dawn to be exploring at first light. On such occasions we will have a quick breakfast before setting out on our game drive: sometimes we’ll return to camp for lunch and some relaxation, and take another drive in the afternoon. On many occasions, we’ll be out in the bush most of the day, enjoying a picnic lunch in the bush. Parks like Serengeti are so big, and roaming is so much fun, that the morning and evening game drive formula is not usually the best way to go. Allen will make sure that you get the most out of your game viewing, yet be attentive to your needs for rest time. Except where noted, any walking will be largely restricted to areas outside the national parks or to the immediate area within our camps.

We provide the best vehicles available: late model “go anywhere” four-wheel-drive vehicles. We use specially designed Toyota Land Cruisers or Land Rovers that have the capacity to comfortably seat up to seven passengers as

well as the driver. We design the trip for each vehicle to take a maximum of five guests, so you will have plenty of room. Our vehicles are designed for great comfort and unimpeded visibility. Each is fully roof-hatched (even the front seat has a hatch), assuring that everyone has access to both window and rooftop views. These are excellent safari vehicles; for comfort, photography and off-road capabilities, they cannot be beat. Vans or buses may be used for airport and border transfers.

Our mobile camps conform to a top standard of safari comfort. They feature a camp staff that looks after all set-up, housekeeping, and commissary tasks. We have roomy walk-in two-person tents, which are mosquito-netted and well ventilated, and feature en suite toilets and showers. You sleep on a comfortable wood frame bed with sheets, blankets, bedding, foam mattress, and pillow. Lighting is provided by rechargeable battery-powered lanterns. Our friendly staff will provide you with delicious meals and ensure your every comfort. This is a real safari, however—so expect some discomforts and bring an expeditionary spirit! We have run successful safaris in Africa for more than 30 years and we are confident you will enjoy a comfortable safari experience.

Activity Level & Travel Conditions
Mountain Travel Sobek trips and Allen Bechky Safaris are designed for flexible, energetic people who like to be active and intellectually involved, have a spirit of adventure, and keep a positive attitude. This trip includes very little aerobic activity, but it does require physical stamina to accommodate the general rigors of travel and busy days in the field. The trip is not a walking safari, but spends a lot of time exploring in remote areas. Please note that much of our travel will be over rough or non-existent roads in rugged four-wheel-drive vehicles, which can be a very jarring experience and is not recommended for people with severe back problems. A certain amount of fortitude and patience is required for an Allen Bechky Safari, but the end result is a thorough and highly rewarding experience for the earnest seeker who values high-quality wildlife observation above all else. Note on wild animals—Many of the animals we go to Africa to see are large and potentially dangerous. Wild animals are generally quite afraid of humans. They tend to avoid our campsites and to run away if approached by foot. Attacks by wild animals are rare, but no walking or camping safari in the African wilderness can guarantee that such incidents will not occur. Mountain Travel Sobek is not to be held responsible for any injuries caused during any incident involving the behavior of wild animals.

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Also See:
 

Mountain Gorilla Expedition

Zambia: The Last Wilderness

     India Wildlife Safari
 
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